Hi everyone, I'm new here and find this to be a very informative site. I started by lubricating and freeing the actuator itself after reading other people with a similar issue and I can manually move the actualtor freely to the open and closed position with no significant resistance which I am not sure it is supposed to do. Adjusted the throttle control and now it runs perfect, except that the 1130 still shows up as a code. The starter cable will be one main bundle and will lead to an auto part, not an accessory. I like this forum, and will let you all know what they say.
Since you did not post the dtc codes I assume you have either P1130 or P1165 or both. I just hope that this helps give someone else a few things to try if they are having the same problem. Put coil back over spark plug making sure the rubber seal that goes around the top of the cylinder is evenly covering the hole, tighten. The easiest way to check the system is to have someone perform a smoke test. A certain voltage signal is issued so that the valve remains at that particular opening. If you typed a year in there it would help a great deal. Look at the front of the engine.
The sensor is connected to the front end of the valve shaft of the swirl control valve. Make sure the fuel cap is tight. You might have to pull the cup holders out to get the metal deck harness out so you dont hurt yourself, just pull on the cup holder like the compartment and it will come out. Should I just bring it on over to Nissan and have them figure it out or should I try to figure it out on my own on why this is happening, it has been over a month and this is still not resolved. Anyway, my check engine came on Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday my truck started sputtering as if I had depressed the brakes a couple of times. If anyone can help it would be really appreciated. I need to look at a 3.
Could not see the sensor but I located the harness on the left rear side of the engine close to the firewall. The sensor is connected to the front end of the valve shaft of the swirl control valve. Clean the hose, and, apparently, problem solved. Maybe I should go do that first. I wouldn't try replacing this starter myself. The thermostat is located from the bottom of the vehicle, off of the lower radiator hose housing. It is soewhat difficult to get to.
Your new bulb is not a perfect fit, so just push it as best you can. The swirl control valve uses a step motor which has four winding phases. I would like to know why this is happening. A certain voltage signal is issued so that the valve remains at that particular opening. The only reference I could find on this site was a reference to a P1130 code close but not the same thing. I applied direct power to the solenoid itself and the actuator does shut from the open position but what is it that makes it open? This is one reason why it was difficult to understand what the heck was going on. It would seem that something significant needs to be removed.
I guess back to the drawing board. I really can't confirm what the problem was but I will share my experience and info might be helpful to anyone else. None the less, the power actuator is located at the driverside intake. Unless there is a line that I am not aware of I don't think this is the problem. I can not seem to figure this out and I really could use some help on where to go next with this besides the dealership. P1137 2004 Nissan Sentra Description Swirl control valve position sensor is installed on the intake manifold. There is a vacuum hose that goes from the black vacuum box where the scv solenoid vavle is located to the scv check switch.
Note just before this last stop, the check engine light was still on and the car was still sputtering. I drove one more mile from the gas station to the house. And did you take care of your Lean condition, either you have 0131 front O2 sensor B1 or 0171 fuel injection B1. Everything should just snap back in to place. Do this on all 4 spark plugs.
He pointed out to me the valve on the right of the manifold and it is fed by the coolant system. When driven the vehicle cannot maintain smooth operation and surges over 2500 rpm, sometimes going over 5000 rpm. Hope that helps, gotta love Google. I realize this is not a techical post. If this is the first time the starter is having issues, replacement can be put off for a couple weeks by taking a small hammer or something similar and hitting the starter.
Then reverse the procedure, putting the new thermostat in. This solenoid valve is operated by the Engine Control Module. I have read what Tele4Mongo has wrote about his car, and I feel as if I should call the mechanic and tell him what to look for. The symptoms are that it runs erratic at idle, dropping to 500 rpm and almost dying at idle. This could be a fuel pump issue. So now its a waiting game to see if this mechanic will be able to fix it. Finally I found starter clicking right under the fuel injector.